This is not a course on how to make stained glass art. It is just a quick demonstration on how it is done. First, I pick a pattern. There are many free patterns on the net but more complex patterns can be purchased in a stained glass supply store. I buy all my equipment and supplies at Le Studio du Verre in old Montreal. Then I pick the type and colour of glass. Picking and matching colours is very difficult for me, so I rely on a female friend at Studio du Verre to pick my glass. Somehow, females have a knack for picking colours and Maggie is the best! Continued below...
There are several ways to transfer the pattern to glass. If it is a clear glass, I place the glass right over the pattern and trace each piece to be cut right on the glass using a thin-tip permanent marker. This is by far the easiest method. If the glass is opaque, more steps are needed. Print and extra copy of the pattern on thick paper, then cut out each piece of the pattern. Place each piece of the pattern on the glass and trace around it with the permanent maker.
After the pattern has been drawn on the glass it is now time to cut. Using even (but not too hard) pressure, run the blade of the cutter along the pattern line from beginning to end. This is called scoring the glass and it is now ready to break. Pick up the scored piece and break apart by placing a thumb and finger on each side of the score. Apply pressure down and the glass "should" break along the cut line. This is an acquired technique and like I said, this is a demonstration and not a lesson. Each piece should be numbered so that it can be clearly identified once each piece has been cut. Numbering is also helpful for knowing which way is up. If there is a colour grain in the glass, you can align the template to take best advantage of that grain.
The copper foil technique, method made popular by L.C. Tiffany, involves wrapping copper foil around each piece of glass.
It has an adhesive on one side and is backed by protective paper. Copper foil is sold in 36-yard rolls and is available in several widths and gauges. The most widely used is 5/32" width but I sometimes use 1/4" for lamp projects. The foil is what the lead solder adheres to when the lamp finally goes together.
Each piece of glass is now foiled and it is time to apply the lead solder. This lamp project is a six-side panel lamp, meaning it has six identical sections. Each of the six sections is soldered together separately by first applying soldering flux to the copper foil. Then the foil is "tinned", by applying a light coat of lead solder to the foil.
Then the six sections are soldered together to form the lamp. A tin top is added during the soldering procedure. The lamp is finished off by washing with soap or stained glass cleaner. The lead can wiped with flux to give it an antiqued look.
...and voila! The lamp is made! Like I said at the beginning, this is not a tutorial on how to make a stained glass lamp but merely a quick "how-to".
Making stained glass art is not easy for some beginners. I suggest you take some lessons at a local studio and start with a small project like a suncatcher or nightlight. Pick a project that has straight and easy glass cuts.
Your local hardware store sells most things you need for making stained glass projects but most are inferior and do not work.
There are many websites that offer free patterns. Look around and you will find them. Your local stained glass supply store sells pattern books for beginners. Complex patterns like Tiffany style lamps are also also available at your stained glass store.
You can download some patterns that I have used and are seen on this website.